Guide to Eating Out (a.k.a. How to Order a Steak in Buenos Aires)
The most important things you need to know about Buenos Aires have to do with food, of course. Until fairly recently, Argentina hasn’t really been known for its diverse cuisine. Their specialty has always been to put a little salt on some of the best meat that has ever existed, grill it on a coal fire, then serve it with a glass of incredible Malbec. Today, Buenos Aires is really quite the food-lovers paradise, with an incredible array of fantastic restaurants. But the steak still remains the star.
One important thing to know about eating out: porteños live for and during the night. On weeknights, no one would be caught dead in a restaurant before 9 pm. In fact, you may be hard-pressed to find a place that opens before then. Most restaurants don’t fill up until around 10. In order to make it, there’s a separate “mini-meal” around 6 pm called merienda, which usually consists of coffee and something sweet, like a cake or a medialuna (Argentina’s answer to the croissant). On weekends, everything gets pushed back even later. It’s not uncommon to sit down to dinner on Friday or Saturday around 11 pm or midnight. Once, Tibi and I were invited to a post-dinner birthday party that started at 3 am. It may take some getting used to, but just know that we haven’t planned anything in the mornings, so sleep in!
An Argentinean steakhouse is called a parrilla. It is by far the most important restaurant of Argentina. You should know a few things about the parrilla. For one, they don’t just serve meat, so those of you poor souls who are vegetarians will still be able to find something. Most parrillas, for instance, also serve pasta.
If you’re doing a really typical night at the parrilla, it should be a multi-course meal. Traditionally, you start with the insides of the animal and work your way out. Here are the best things to order as starters.
Next thing to know is that the cuts of meat in Argentina are completely different than in the States or Europe. It’s hard to even give you an accurate comparison for some of the cuts because they’re just cut completely differently. But here are a few of the best:
OK. So you know the best cuts. Now you need to know how to order it. The default temperature is a punto, which is sort of like a medium well. (That’s right…they prefer to cook the meat a little bit more well-done unless you specify.) If you want it seriously well-done, ask for bien hecho. If you like it more medium rare, ask for jugoso.
Most people eat their steaks plain, without any sauce. But there is always the chimichurri sauce at the table for you to use. It’s a mix of herbs and oil. Argentineans think it’s really spicy, but it really isn’t at all. The steaks do not come with sides. You have to order them separately. We always get some papas fritas (French fries) and a green salad on the side for everyone to share. Let the meat be the star.
For dessert, your best bet is always something with dulce de leche. This creamy concoction is one of the greatest contributions that Argentina has made to the world. It’s not like the dulce de leche you hear about in the U.S., which is more Puerto Rican or Cuban in style. The stuff here is so rich, thick, and creamy. It’s really like heaven.
One important thing to know about eating out: porteños live for and during the night. On weeknights, no one would be caught dead in a restaurant before 9 pm. In fact, you may be hard-pressed to find a place that opens before then. Most restaurants don’t fill up until around 10. In order to make it, there’s a separate “mini-meal” around 6 pm called merienda, which usually consists of coffee and something sweet, like a cake or a medialuna (Argentina’s answer to the croissant). On weekends, everything gets pushed back even later. It’s not uncommon to sit down to dinner on Friday or Saturday around 11 pm or midnight. Once, Tibi and I were invited to a post-dinner birthday party that started at 3 am. It may take some getting used to, but just know that we haven’t planned anything in the mornings, so sleep in!
An Argentinean steakhouse is called a parrilla. It is by far the most important restaurant of Argentina. You should know a few things about the parrilla. For one, they don’t just serve meat, so those of you poor souls who are vegetarians will still be able to find something. Most parrillas, for instance, also serve pasta.
If you’re doing a really typical night at the parrilla, it should be a multi-course meal. Traditionally, you start with the insides of the animal and work your way out. Here are the best things to order as starters.
- Chorizo – pork sausage; way different from Spanish chorizo; delicious
- Morcilla – blood sausage; very typical and delicious (for those who like that sort of thing)
- Mollejas – sweetbreads; totally different than any sweetbreads you’ve had in French restaurants; here they grill them until they’re crunchy, then squeeze lemon juice on top
- Riñones – kidneys; Kerry can’t stand them, but many people love them
- Provoleta – not meat; this is just grilled, melted cheese deliciousness; so so so good
Next thing to know is that the cuts of meat in Argentina are completely different than in the States or Europe. It’s hard to even give you an accurate comparison for some of the cuts because they’re just cut completely differently. But here are a few of the best:
- Bife de chorizo – our favorite cut; the King of Steaks. Sort of like a Sirloin?
- Ojo de bife – also amazing; closest to a ribeye
- Lomo – tender, not very fatty; like a filet mignon?
- Asado de tira – ribs
- Vacio – not every parrilla has this, but if they do, get it! It’s so delicious. I have no idea what it’s comparable to
- Entraña – like a skirt steak
OK. So you know the best cuts. Now you need to know how to order it. The default temperature is a punto, which is sort of like a medium well. (That’s right…they prefer to cook the meat a little bit more well-done unless you specify.) If you want it seriously well-done, ask for bien hecho. If you like it more medium rare, ask for jugoso.
Most people eat their steaks plain, without any sauce. But there is always the chimichurri sauce at the table for you to use. It’s a mix of herbs and oil. Argentineans think it’s really spicy, but it really isn’t at all. The steaks do not come with sides. You have to order them separately. We always get some papas fritas (French fries) and a green salad on the side for everyone to share. Let the meat be the star.
For dessert, your best bet is always something with dulce de leche. This creamy concoction is one of the greatest contributions that Argentina has made to the world. It’s not like the dulce de leche you hear about in the U.S., which is more Puerto Rican or Cuban in style. The stuff here is so rich, thick, and creamy. It’s really like heaven.